Monday, March 3, 2008

Please Comment on the Video Outline

Garlic Mustard Draft Outline - 3/3/08

How the plant got here

  • Brought by colonists in 1860’s as a culinary herb
Why it has spread here
  • No natural enemies (e.g. insects or fungi)
  • Each plant produces hundreds of seeds
  • Seeds stick to animal fur, shoes of walkers, car tires, etc., and also float downstream or are carried by the wind (most sources say wind isn’t a significant vector ??), to reach new territory
  • Can spread by bringing compost, root stock, or transplants from infected areas
  • Longevity of viable seeds in the ground—seeds can germinate at least five years after being produced.
  • Extremely high density of growth shades out competition
  • Inhibits mycorrhizal fungi that native plants, such as trees, require for growth
  • High deer populations can facilitate its spread—
      • White-tail deer rarely feed on it, instead they consume the competing native plants further assisting its spread
      • Trampling by browsing deer encourages seed growth by disturbing the soil.
Impact on native ecosystems
  • Reduces the diversity of plants growing in forest understory
      • This affects innumerable other species that depend on native plants
      • Inhibits regeneration of forests—this can have long-term impacts on the ability of forests to provide habitat and beneficial ecosystem functions such as carbon fixation, oxygen production, erosion control, water retention, filtering of pollutants from water and air.
  • Can become a “population sink”:
      • e.g. some species of butterflies mistakenly lay their eggs on it instead of their usual host, but the larvae die once they hatch.
Proper identification:
  • Biennial
      • Seedlings appear early spring, form a dense carpet
      • Produces a non-flowering rosette first year which overwinters
      • Flowers second year
          • Flowers when pods are forming and are green and supple
          • Seed pods turn brown and dry and drop seed
          • Late summer the spent 2nd year plants coexist with first year plants on the rise
Control principles
  • Important to cut or pull before going to seed. Cutting is ineffective unless is done at ground level and at a specific time period (when plant is approaching/just beginning flowering stage).
  • For large patches, start at the perimeter and work in, e.g start at the back of the infestation in the forest and move forward (which usually means moving toward the road.)
  • Attack isolated infestations as soon as identified, before they spread out of control. This is especially important in areas that are sensitive and/or where control is difficult, such as wetlands.
  • All roots should be removed—easiest when ground is wet—to prevent resprouting.
  • The cut end of plants can continue growing and go to seed even without roots, so plant cannot be left on the ground, and never should be composted
      • “Bag and trash” is best—follow the directions of your municipality for type of bag.
  • Burning and/or chemical application has been used by professionals for large infestations.
      • Rate of control after burning and herbicides has not always been satisfactory.
      • These techniques can be dangerous to work with.
      • They can kill “non-target” native plants and make the area vulnerable to new infestations as garlic mustard seedlings do best in disturbed soil.
  • Biological control options are being researched, but the challenge is to find something that will kill garlic mustard while also being safe for native plants.
The importance of community education and mobilization for early detection/rapid response—examples of success stories such as Alaska.

Resources for the most current information on control methods

19 comments:

Jeremy Solin said...

The outline is logical. The focus should be, as it is, on identification and control methods. It may be helpful to include a few similar-looking plants (at least natives in the mustard family) and describe how G mustard can be differentiated (smell being a good one).

We do have a success story in the West Salem school forest that might be worth including. Seventh and eight grade student identified and removed a couple small patches. These were the initial front and have been able to keep it under control since then (at least, it was under control the last I heard). I know they at least have pictures and you might be able to get some footage of them this spring if desired.

Also, it would be good to get IPAW (Jim Reinartz) and DNR (Kelly Kearns) input on the video.

Barbara Lucas said...

Thanks Jeremy, this is very helpful. When it comes to kids, I'm especially interested in examples (such as the West Salem school) where the infestation is manageable, and kept under control. I've interviewed kids for other documentaries who found garlic mustard very depressing because areas they worked hard on for a school project are now totally out of control. I'm concerned that feeling overwhelmed by invasives could negatively affect kids attitudes towards nature, more generally. This is beyond the scope of this video project, but I've wondered whether it might be best to make sure you will have a positive outcome before using kids to tackle invasives. Have others encountered this dilemma?
Barbara Lucas

Anonymous said...

Kelly Kearns is our Wisconsin DNR highly regarded, hard working invasive species expert. She replied via email and we wanted to capture her words. With her permission, we are quoting her thoughts here. Due to limited formatting abilities on this section of the blog, we hope you will get the gist of her thoughts, nontheless--CG

Garlic Mustard Draft Outline - 3/3/08
How the plant got here
Proper identification:
• Biennial
o Seedlings appear early spring, form a dense carpet under and near parent plants
o Produces a non-flowering rosette first year which overwinters
- scalloped leaves 1-4" across
- garlic odor
- generally an S shaped root
• Flowers second year
• Flowers when pods are forming and are green and supple starts growth in early spring of second year.

Leaves become more triangular on the flowering stalk. multiple small white 4-petaled flowers produced over approx. 1 month. earlier flowers lower on the stalk may be producing seed pods while flowers still forming above.
• slender Seed pods 1-2" long (siliques) turn brown and dry and drop seed by June. Plants start dying as soon as flowering is completed.
• Late summer the spent 2nd year plants coexist with first year plants on the rise and can often still be seen the following year - helping to locate new batches of seedlings
Control principles
• Important to cut or pull ENTIRE ROOT before going to seed. Cutting is ineffective unless is done at ground level and at a specific time period (when plant is approaching/just beginning flowering stage). Resprouting generally occurs from cut plants or those where the root broke off during pulling.
• For large patches, start at the perimeter and work in, e.g start at the back of the infestation in the forest and move forward (which usually means moving toward the road, trail or other edge where the population likely got started.)
• Attack isolated infestations as soon as identified, before they spread out of control and produce any seed. This is especially important in areas that are sensitive and/or where control is difficult, such as wetlands. and in few infestations
• All roots should be removed—easiest when ground is wet—to prevent resprouting.
• The cut end of plants that are pulled and then left in the woods can continue growing and go to seed even once pulled out of the ground without roots, so plants cannot be left on the ground, and never should be composted
• “Bag and trash” is best—follow the directions of your municipality for type of bag. Not necessarily - what you really want is for them to remove them from the woods. If they use trash cans, wheel barrows, etc, it doesn't matter. If you are referring to how they should dispose of the plants once removed, be clear. At this time if they want to send them to the landfill they should be in a bag clearly labeled "Invasive plants - approved by WI DNR for landfilling"
• You need to mention somewhere in the handpulling section that it is really only effective for smaller or scattered populations. Other techniques should be used for populations too large to hand pull
• Burning and/or chemical application has been used by professionals for large infestations.

Sorry - I totally disagree with your premise in this section. Telling people they should only use pulling, or worse, the ineffectual cutting, is dooming them to burn-out and failure on many sites. they need the info to make decisions on what is best to use on their own site. Use of a propane torch does not have to be dangerous at all, and can even be done when the ground is moist or during a light rain. Torches are VERY effective on newly germinated seedlings and are not going to be effective on older rosettes or 2nd year plants.

Using prescribed fire must be done with trained persons and followed up with torching, pulling and/or herbiciding. It is not sufficient alone. Fire WILL encourage more germination, which is not necessarily bad as long as you are doing control for the next few years anyway. It just speeds up germination. Herbicide use is not necessarily dangerous if done correctly, with proper gear and following label instructions. For larger infestations it is currently the best means of control. Spraying should be carefully targeted and a shield (eg, a piece of cardboard) can easily be used to protect non-target plants when spraying. ANY control methods should be followed up a few weeks later to go back after those plants that survived or are resprouting. Spraying is best done in spring (after rosettes are actively growing but before natives have emerged) and fall (after a hard frost but on a relatively warm day when GM is actively growing)
o Rate of control after burning and herbicides has not always been satisfactory.
o These techniques can be dangerous to work with.
o They can kill “non-target” native plants and make the area vulnerable to new infestations as garlic mustard seedlings do best in disturbed soil.

Biological control options are being researched, but the challenge is to find something that will kill garlic mustard while also being safe for native plants and related agricultural plants.

After extensive testing in Europe, 6 insects have been selected that appear to feed only on GM. Research in containment facilities is underway to ensure safety and to determine how to best propagate the insects.

The importance of community education and mobilization for early detection/rapid response—examples of success stories such as Alaska.

Resources for the most current information on control methods

Barbara Lucas said...

This message was sent to me by Bob Heyd, Michigan DNR Forest Health Specialist:

Looks very good. Only comment is on the last comment on biological control:

"Biological control options are being researched, but the challenge is to find something that will kill garlic mustard while also being safe for native plants."

This is an unnecessarily negative statement. Current biocontrol efforts for garlic mustard have eliminated a number of promising insects even though very effective, because they do occassionally feed on native mustards. The one remaining insect is very specific to garlic mustard...a necessary attribute of an introduced species. I don't like seeing mistakes of the past in selecting generalists affecting perhaps our only real hopes of stemming the garlic mustard tide...biocontrol.

So, I might replace this statement with something like:

"Biological control optons are being researched. Great care is being taken to select species which effectively reduce the growth and reproduction of garlic mustard, and do not impact native plants. There are many suscessful examples such as the leaf beetle which attacks purple loosestrife."

Bob

Cindy Gaskill, Washington Township Alliance, Wisconsin Family Forests, Inc. said...

This post is sent by Randall Holm, Wisconsin DNR

I agree with Kelly's information.

On Rock Island State Park spring spot burning with a torch has been most helpful. (Our control zone is 3-4 acres in the middle of the campground.) 1)It kills the plants, 2) removes the leaf litter so plant locations are easier to locate throughout the rest of the summer, 3) it stimulates germination of new plants so more of the seed bed is controlled more quickly. Regular monitoring then is easier. Initially I used more herbicide but it seemed like I had less collateral damage to other plants with the "flame thrower". If doing a large area with herbicide a good tip is to put colored dye in with the chemical to see where you've done.

I do not weed whip mustard anymore! Done at the wrong time it became a disaster and increased the problem. Pulling plants in a small area is effective only if the people pulling are diligent at getting the whole root. Roots can be very hard to get in dry, rocky conditions. Volunteers who break off plants actually make it harder to control because the plant is "hidden from view" until the little surprise shows up later.

The last two years I've been surprised at the number of 2nd year(seed plants) I'd find in the spring until I learned to monitor the control zone and pull plants until the snow flies in fall.

Most important information is to take action NOW!!!!! Talking doesn't get it done and rapid response is critically important. Waiting to start control and using cutting were my two biggest errors.

Follow deer trails, and raccoon trails(around fallen logs and up close to big trees) to find new plants. Also check the path of rain runoff.

Psychological impact is a consideration. This problem can be depressing and overwhelming. I suffer mentally every spring when the new plants come up in areas that seemed "clean" the previous fall. Also working among the beautiful and sometimes rare wildflowers and killing some of them by torch or chemical is tough for me. Understanding that not controlling will result in all of those flowers disappearing due to garlic mustard is some consolation.

Be certain to have good examples of 1st and second year plants both individually and in patches.

Individuals can use herbicide and torches by following instructions and using due regard. We all have a learning curve in control measures. Burning requires a fire monitor person with fire suppression knowledge(shovel and water) and care on where and when to use it. I use the torch typically only in the morning when there is dew or during or following a light rain.

On Rock Island we have a successful control program. It requires a lot of work and will be ongoing forever. Viewers of the video need to understand that they will probably have to continue control efforts forever if they don't catch it right away when there are just a few plants. The control gets easier if the initial actions are effective and the monitoring thereafter is diligent. The alternative is monoculture garlic mustard.

Good luck and good job!

Anonymous said...

I would like to reiterate the comments of Kelly Kearns and Cindy Gaskill.

The section on herbicides and burning is unnecessarily negative.

o Rate of control after burning and herbicides has not always been satisfactory.
o These techniques can be dangerous to work with.
o They can kill “non-target” native plants and make the area vulnerable to new infestations as garlic mustard seedlings do best in disturbed soil.


Your comments take the negative form of each comment. Sometimes rates of control after burning and herbicides are not satisfactory, but often times they are. It is good to advocate caution and training when you present these methods, but it is a disservice to influence people against them.

Barbara Lucas's comments are a prime example of this. Those children and other volunteers who become discouraged by their lack of success with garlic mustard control should speak to the person who set the project up for them. My guess would be that the method (i.e. in this case pulling) was not appropriate for the infestation. It is going to take a suite of control methods used in an appropriate way at an appropriate time and on appropriate populations to control garlic mustard and we should equip anyone willing to help out with the proper information and tools to be successful. Sometimes pulling is the most appropriate control method, other times it will be burning or pesticides that will be most appropriate for control.

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